Chef Steve Mitton's new locavore food shop Murray's Market is scheduled to open in May. "My plans to become a Master Charcutier–it's not going to happen," he says

When I ran into Murray Street’s Chef Steve Mitton in Toronto a couple of weeks ago, he was a man on a meaty mission. In addition to attending Terroir where he had the opportunity to hang with his culinary mentor, Fergus Henderson, the UK’s godfather of Nose to Tail Cooking, he had lined up apprenticeships (or “stages” as they are called) at a couple of the city’s most renowned butcher shops including Sanagan’s Meat Locker in grungy Kensington Market and Olliffes in the posh Rosedale neighbourhood.

“I’m going to get my hands dirty, hone my skills and hopefully get some ideas about take-home meals,” said Mitton, who announced last November that he will be turning over the reins in the kitchen at Murray Street in order to set up a second meat-lover’s Mecca around the corner on Dalhousie Street — a combination gourmet take-out food shop, butchery, artisan meat and cheese deli/lunch counter. The new Murray’s Market (a partnership with Paddy Whelan who co-owns Murray Street) is currently under construction and scheduled to open in early May.

I stopped by the restaurant to see Mitton after his return from Toronto last week to find out what he learned from his Hogtown counterparts. He had butchered animals by day and in the evenings  feasted on platters of the finest artisanal cold-cuts in some of the city’s hottest carnivorous hang-outs including the aptly named Beast. He says he discovered a close-knit group of butchers, chefs, and restaurateurs who are banding together rather than being competitive. “It was really eye-opening. It’s a really great community,” he says. “And it was good to see my butcher skills are on par.”

With visions of cassoulet in mason jars dancing in his head. Mitton returned to Ottawa pumped full of ideas for the new Murray’s Market. At the same time, he was processing the news that has radically altered his vision for the shop. He found out that due to the prohibitive costs required to meet provincial meat processing regulations, it will be impossible to stock his deli with his own house-made prosciutto, capicolla, salami, and chorizo — what he calls “all the nice fancy stuff.” While he will be able to continue to make his own pates, terrines, and fresh sausages, he won’t be able to make anything fermented, dried or requiring nitrates. “All the stuff you see hanging with the white mold, that’s the stuff I wanted to make,” he says.

Clearly Mitton is disappointed that his plans to become a Master Charcutier have been thwarted, but he seems to be able to console himself with the idea of connecting locavore foodies to a new level of carnivorous pleasures while supporting his favourite local farms: whether its the heads, trotters, and hocks of Large Black pigs from Upper Canada Heritage Meat, Rideau Arcott lambs, or Dan O’Brien’s cows. “I like what David Kinch [a California chef who spoke at Terroir] said. It’s not just about using local, it’s about getting the best of what’s available,” says Mitton, “Local is just another way of saying it.”

Ottawa Magazine

Chef Matt Charmichael and Chef Jonathan Korecki of Restaurant Eighteen channel Susur Lee in the new Asian-inspired bistro Side Door, located well, right next door

If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, superstar chef Susur Lee must be blushing. Side Door, which just opened in the spot last held by Foundation, has much in common with Lee’s eponymous and wildly popular Asian fusion bistro on King Street in Toronto. With its contemporary twist on traditional dishes, relaxed lounge-style seating, and convivial sharing plates concept, the brand new Side Door in the heart of the Byward Market may ring a bell with fans of Lee. It’s no coincidence. Both Executive Chef Matt Charmichael and Chef Jonathan Korecki (Carmichael’s sous-chef at Restaurant E18hteen for the past four years) worked under the Hong Kong-born restaurateur and have now poured their experience and love of East-meets-West flavours into this city’s first bona-fide contemporary Asian-fusion bistro.

With the owners of Restaurant E18hteen and Social behind it, it’s no surprise that the atmosphere is an impressive mix of trendy, chic, and sophisticated. It helps to start with the stunning bones that are characteristic of these heritage buildings — sprawling, sexy, storied spaces with craggy stone walls.

As part of the “revamping” of the space since its Foundation days, the glassed-in atrium area at the front of the restaurant has literally been raised up. This helps to rid the space of its basement feel. With its minimalist decor, fresh white oak tabletops, and sleek black leather bench seating, the table-cloth-free zone manages to achieve a casual, cozy feel. Don’t be surprised to be seated at a table next to strangers here, just as you would at a family-style Chinese restaurant. Similarly, the menu encourages diners to order several dishes for sharing. Vegetables, rice, seafood, and meat dishes — everything is ordered “a la carte,” with lots of options of smaller and larger plates and lighter and heavier fare, all of it ideal for nibbling the night away. “It’s the way most foodies prefer to eat anyway,” says Carmichael. “It’s the food I love to eat.”

Carmichael just returned from a month-long trip to Australia and Thailand, a culinary journey that has inspired several items on the menu. At a cooking class in Bangkok, he discovered the secrets to making authentic, deeply layered curries such as Panaeng. “It takes us an hour and a half with a mortar and pestle to pulverize the fresh herbs and dried spices,” he explains. The resulting aromatic paste is mixed with coconut milk and served over large chunks of meltingly tender braised short ribs. The dish is topped with crushed roasted peanuts and thinly sliced lime leaf. A bowl of jasmine rice and sugar snap peas with miso and parmesan can be ordered separately. There’s a menu of fresh frisky cocktails, featuring ingredients like green tea and yuzu, as well a selection of sake in addition to the international wine list. King Pilsner, an Ontario craft beer and Chef’s choice as an excellent accompaniment to spicy food, is on tap.

Chef Korecki is particularly excited about the tacos on the menu, which are made using a special machine that flattens and rolls the corn tortilla dough out onto a hot griddle. Warm tacos are topped with a tomatillo chutney called chow chow, not unlike salsa verde, and layered up with an assortment of ingredients including authentic Chinese barbecue pork, Bajan crispy fish, and soy ginger shrimp. Chef is still awaiting the arrival of the mini donut-making machine (“straight from the CNE,” he says) so he can start serving up plates of chocolate-dipped or cinnamon-dusted darlings soon.

The Side Door Contemporary Kitchen & Bar, 18b York St., 613-562-9331. www.sidedoorrestaurant.com

Open Monday to Saturday from 5 p.m.

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